Concrete is commonly used in construction today to resemble other building materials. In fact concrete has become so popular it is being used to design unique, distinctive countertops which when completed look just like natural stone. So why not consider installing do it yourself concrete countertops.
Of course there are easy methods of getting a new countertop. Pouring concrete is heavy and messy work and it definitely takes some time. But the payoff is a countertop that looks fabulous, is affordable, and lasts a lifetime.
Concrete counters aren’t new to the world, only to North America. They have been used throughout the world for centuries. So are you ready to find out how it’s done and get busy building your own countertop?
First of there are some things you should know.
1. You’ll need a dry, heated space outside where you can work in the early stages.
2. Pick up your concrete, and the pigment you’ll need. For the darker colors start with pre-mixed concrete. For lighter colors you will need to make your concrete from white Portland cement and mason’s sand, combined with pea gravel.
1. Start by making the form - Make your form from ¾ inch plywood coated with melamine. The melamine helps the concrete dry slower so then it is stronger. It also stops sticking.
2. Join the sides to the bottom using drywall screws.
3. After it’s built you won’t be able to drill or cut the slab so you need to create any voids for sinks and range tops using plywood blockouts. Make your blockouts the same height as the sides and then secure to the form’s bottom.
4. Pour the concrete – you can fortify the slab with diamond lath, polypropylene fibers, and reinforcing rod which will make it stronger.
5. Install #3 rebar around the sink cutout.
6. Once you’ve got all your measuring and cutting done it’s time to mix the concrete. You’ll mix it in layers so minimize the time between each layer.
7. How durable your concrete will be will depend on the how your concrete is mixed. Blend the dry ingredients thoroughly You’ll use a mason’s hoe to do so.
8. Next measure your liquid ingredient
9. Mix the dry and liquid ingredients together alternating a little at a time.
10. To strengthen your mix you need to add 2 quarts of Portland cement to every 60 pound bag of pre-mix.
11. Concrete always cracks during the curing process but the diamond lath, polypropylene fibers, and reinforcing rod will keep the cracking minimal and tight.
12. Remember that exposed surface areas will need to be fiber-free. If you added the poly-fiber you’d get fuzz and you can’t sand it off. So fill the middle with reinforced concrete and then finish the top with a regular layer.
13. Different batches of concrete are going to need to bond together and look seamless so it’s important to keep the color and consistency of the concrete the same for each batch. That means no guessing. Measure everything exactly!
14. Your concrete needs to be damp enough to form a ball. Runny concrete levels itself much easier in the forms but it dries week. Thicker concrete requires more effort from you to level but it’s much stronger.
15. Use your magnesium float to tamp your concrete. Pack it tightly in the form. Work your surface until it is smooth. This is the step that burns the most energy but produces the most rewards.
16. You’ll need a channel that’s 2 inches wide and at least 18 inches long and begin striking the surface.
17. As you move along the top of the form saw the bar back and forth. You’ll need to repeat until the surface is smooth.
18. Let the concrete set for 3 hours then use your steel trowel to trowel the surface. Do not overwork it or you’ll draw the aggregate to the surface which is not what you want. Instead trowel briefly, stop, and then re-trowel.
19. If the climate is hot or dry you will have to cover your concrete with wet burlap or plastic to slow down the curing process and increase the hardness. Let cure for a minimum of 48 hours before you remove them from the forms.
20. Now its time to finish the concrete by releasing the concrete from the forms.
21. Separate the joints with a flat pry bar.
22. Unscrew the blockout but don’t remove until you are ready to install.
23. Sand sharp corners with 100 grit sandpaper and an orbital sander.
24. Use muriatic acid and water to etch the surface. Follow the directions carefully!
25. Rinse completely and let air dry.
26. Prepare a mix of Portland cement, liquid pigment, and latex additive until it’s about the thickness of peanut butter.
27. Use your rubber face grout float to apply it to the surfaces.
28. Skiff the surfaces with the leading edge of the float.
29. Let the filler dry and cure for about an hour.
30. Sand it with 180 grit discs using an orbital sander. Make sure you’ve got lots of discs.
31. Great now it’s time to start the installation – you’ll ant to make sure you’ve got plenty of help rounded up.
32. The slab is going to weight about 20 pounds per square foot and really hard to maneuver and you have to be sure to protect it so that you don’t cause any stress fractures. So the more friends you can round up the better.
33. If at all possible let it cure completely before you move it. That can be about a month.
34. Once it’s in place you will need to apply a thin bead of silicone caulk along the edge.
35. Use your jigsaw to cut out the blockout pieces.
36. Seal the exposed surface of the slab. Follow the directions provided by the manufacturer.
37. Once the coat has dried buff out the surface.
38. Now apply the acrylic clear finish and let dry.
39. Use your electric drill with a buffing pad to give it the ultimate high gloss shine.
That’s it – your do it yourself concrete countertops from start to finish. So are you ready to give it a try?
