Plastic laminate countertops are durable and easy to care for. But they are also trendy and classy and look great in a kitchen, bar, or bathroom countertop.
It’s also a great choice for someone who has those handy man skills and wants to do it themselves. And there’s an excellent selection of patterns and colors so you’ll certainly be able to find the perfect décor match. Don’t settle for solids. Try on some of the more unique and unusual patterns or styles like the delicate woven textile or brush stroke patterns. There are 91 new designs that have just been added.
These days industrial chic is very trendy and that makes the metallic laminates are an excellent choice. Choose from Formica’s aluminum, stainless aluminum, soft or satin aluminum, herringbone, vertical stripes, copper, brushed bronze, black aluminum, green or blue aluminum, or even red. Awesome!
If Formica’s line doesn’t work for you then check out Wilsonart Internationals Metalaminates. They have a full line of foil laminates that include the standards – stainless steel, aluminum, or titanium. There are plenty of color options – pearl, champagne, matte silver, softer copper, silver tones, or how about the marine metallic which is like green block glass. But wait there is more. Satin brushed natural, iron, and gold. Stainless polished natural and gold, and of course brass.
There are two forms of plastic laminate available. Preformed top or sheet laminate which you need to fasten to a core support. Performed top sections offer a lot of variety such as molded backsplash or a cove front edge. You might want a square, bullnose, 45 degree, or round front edge. No problem! You can even choose contrasting colors or patterns to give your counter a little different look.
Preformed countertops require less work and fewer tools. Here are the steps to install your preformed counter.
You will need a drill, bit, saber saw, belt sander, block plane, C clamps, rubber mallet, hammer, fine tooth handsaw, safety glasses, level, caulking, sandpaper, screwdriver, wrench, scriber, and masking tape.
Start by carefully measuring the size. Allow for front and end overhangs. Pre-forms are available in standard lengths. You’ll need to account for any L or U shapes as well. You’ll need fastening bolts and caulking to make your joints and end caps. You’ll also need some contact adhesive.
If a standard size is too long you will need to cut it and apply a finishing edge. You’ll want to make sure your measurements are correct. Allow for a 1 inch overhang. Mark your cut line with a sharp pencil and then place a strip of masking tape over the area.
You’ll need to sand and file the edge that you cut. Turn the countertop onto it’s flat surface. Cut your ¾ strips so that they match the front. Glue the strips onto the ends and use the C clamps to hold them until the glue sets. Sand if needed.
You can do your sink cutouts two ways. You can use a sink cutout just place it on the countertop and cut out. Drill your start hole on one edge then use a saber saw with a fine toothed blade to make the cutout.
If there is no pattern place the sink rim on the countertop in the location where it’s going to go then mark around the edge. Use your saber saw to cut your opening.
All you need to do now is place the countertop in the correct position on the cabinet. Use a scribe to mark the top edge or backsplash and then block plane the line to the contour of the wall. Now place the top back into position. Finally all that’s left to do is secure it.
